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I barely got any sleep last night. Knowing that I was about to visit the final temple along the pilgrimage, my head was running full of emotions. A combination of sadness and excitement, I had too much energy to have a decent sleep. Getting up and ready well before dawn, I made sure I had everything packed the night before, knowing that I’d want to be well prepared for the walk ahead of me. I had no appetite this early in the day, so as soon as I showered I was out the door and arriving at the train station within a matter of minutes - eating could wait.
There was barely a handful of people at the station this morning; not surprising considering it wasn't even 6am yet. I was heading back to the little station that was next door to Temple 87, and then continuing on foot from there. It was very quiet at the station, almost as though Takamatsu had been deserted overnight, and the stillness of the cold morning air was a calming way to start my journey to the final temple of the pilgrimage. As I sat on the platform waiting for the train to depart, I pondered the last almost-seven-weeks I had been walking. I felt both physically and mentally hardened, I had lost almost 14kg in weight, and I had fallen in love with feeling a part of nature. My walking staff had lost inches from the base and had become much shorter now, from constantly tapping the path with every step I had walked, and my once brand-new hiking boots had almost lost all of their grip. I wondered how I would feel at the very end of my adventure, and if I’d feel different upon returning home.
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Sunport Takamatsu - home of the JR Takamatsu Station.
Walking along the coast through the quiet back streets of Takamatsu, I was blessed with a beautiful sunny day today as I walked towards Temple 86. I had the opportunity to sleep in this morning, but was full of energy well before dawn and ended up at Takamatsu Station just on 6am. Thankfully there was no rush today, and from my calculations it was going to be a half day of walking at best. I'd visit two temples today, then catch a train back to Takamatsu City to explore and relax. With my backpack in a station locker, I caught a train back to where I left off yesterday.
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After weeks of walking, it finally hit me this morning; a build up of emotions that decided to come to a head today - this walk of mine was coming to the end.
A very early morning train.
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After catching an early morning train with all the school kids, I arrived at the gloomy Tadotsu Station and ventured out into the pouring rain, making a pit stop at the station bakery for breakfast. With little in the way of shelter and far too wet to use the guide book, I used Google Maps on my trusty iPhone to find the location of Temple 77. After 20 minutes I arrived at a big timber gate and walked through, but found the temple unattended. I didn't understand at first, confused as to why there was not a soul here. And then it hit me - I was at the wrong temple.
The main gate to the real Temple 77, Dōryūji (道隆寺)
After figuring out what was actually going on, I eventually stumbled upon Temple 77, Dōryūji (道隆寺). Yet another timber gate to enter, this temple was as empty as the last meaning I still wasn't sure I had the right place, but after a quick Google-image search on the 'net, I was able to ease my mind.
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I couldn't tell which temple was Number 68 or Number 69.
With my morning coffee in one hand and guide book in the other, I did my best to try and figure out which temple was which. Of all the temples along the pilgrimage, Temples 68 and 69 were neighbours who shared the same space, making it a little confusing to this foreigner who couldn't differentiate the two. In the end I waited to see what other early morning pilgrims did, and then followed in their footsteps.
Apart from having accommodation booked at a hotel, there was no other plan for today. I'd be finally hitting the temples in the 70s mark, with the majority of them clumped together in a small area. I didn't know how temples I was going to visit today, as long as I wasn't walking at night I didn't care.
With my morning coffee in one hand and guide book in the other, I did my best to try and figure out which temple was which. Of all the temples along the pilgrimage, Temples 68 and 69 were neighbours who shared the same space, making it a little confusing to this foreigner who couldn't differentiate the two. In the end I waited to see what other early morning pilgrims did, and then followed in their footsteps.
Apart from having accommodation booked at a hotel, there was no other plan for today. I'd be finally hitting the temples in the 70s mark, with the majority of them clumped together in a small area. I didn't know how temples I was going to visit today, as long as I wasn't walking at night I didn't care.
Temple 68, Jinnein (神恵院)
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I'm surprised that I didn't freeze to death last night. Although I was covered from head to toe in all my cold weather gear, I still felt like I was covered in ice. Still, I dragged my cold bum out of bed before dawn, wanting to get some photos and video with the drone. Sitting high up here on the mountain, I was able to see clouds below me and witness one amazing sunrise; It was truly an amazing sight. All I needed was coffee, but that wasn't gonna happen anytime soon.
High above the clouds, this is an epic way to start the day.
At 8 o'clock on the dot I received my stamp from the temple office. I had already visited the two halls and performed my temple duties, wanting to save time. Luckily I had hours prior to explore the magnificent mountain temple that was Temple 66, Unpenji (雲辺寺).
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The climb to Temple 66 was for me, going to to be the hardest climb yet. Sitting at 920m up on a mountain, the climb to the top was meant to be a tough one. I had heard mixed stories - some said that the climb between T11 and T12 was the hardest, others said the climb to T21, and many said that today's climb was the worst. Either way, I wasn't overly excited for the climb, but was keen to see the Temple. After breakfast at Family Mart - ham and cheese toasted sandwiches for the win. I was ready to go.
Seeya Shikokuchuo
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Before I fell asleep last night, the painful Japanese pilgrim told me he was going to bed early so he could have an early start today. Clearly that wasn't the case - I was in bed by 10pm, and up and out the door this morning whilst he was still asleep. I thought that maybe I should wake him out of courtesy, but decided against it. I probably woke him when I opened the old rusted roller door to the garage anyway.
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I couldn't pull myself out of my sleeping bag this morning - it was absolutely freezing up on the mountain in my little cabin. Still, I had to get back onto the path and tackle another 10km of mountain trekking before I would even reach civilisation again. On a positive note, the vending machine outside the hut supplied me with hot cans of coffee - enough to give me the kick that I needed.
Whoa.
Continuing from where I left off, I started my walk out the other end of Temple 60. It was deadly quiet this morning, not even sounds of wildlife were stirring. There was no wind either, so all the trees simply stood tall and still. After passing some old timber Tori gates as I made my way towards the carpark, I made the most of the isolation and got the drone high above me. Best decision of the morning - I was treated with epic views of the sunrise over the mountains and the Seto Inland Sea, miles away in the distance.
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I slept in this morning - until 5:30am. Yep, that was a late start for me. Snacking on pastries that I bought from Family Mart the previous night, I walked towards Imabari Station to catch a train back towards Temple 59 to pick up where I had left off. The train was virtually empty this morning, because even Japanese school kids with their strict discipline and routines aren't stupid enough to be up this early.
The Japanese really take pride in their trains.