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It was time to leave the area.
There would be no walking today - The cape was expecting the full brunt of the typhoon today, and people were being asked to evacuate the area. Damage from gale-force wind was expected, as well as flooding and mud slides - all the nasty stuff that goes with a cyclone. Trails would be out of action too, so I'd have to wait a day, maybe two, before I could continue on my journey again. My only course of action for today was to catch a bus back to Shimanto City, and bunker down in Hotel Kokomo. I'd be getting there very early, so hopefully I could check-in right away, and then settle in for the day.
There would be no walking today - The cape was expecting the full brunt of the typhoon today, and people were being asked to evacuate the area. Damage from gale-force wind was expected, as well as flooding and mud slides - all the nasty stuff that goes with a cyclone. Trails would be out of action too, so I'd have to wait a day, maybe two, before I could continue on my journey again. My only course of action for today was to catch a bus back to Shimanto City, and bunker down in Hotel Kokomo. I'd be getting there very early, so hopefully I could check-in right away, and then settle in for the day.
Great in rain - not in wind.
BeingAfter breakfast I packed my gear and said goodbye to Yuusuke. He actually seemed upset that I was leaving, and I was going to miss him too. The old lady, who was the amazing chef and part manager of Ohki-No-Hama, came to say goodbye to me, handing me Osettai of nice hot coffee and sweet orange rind - which she kindly referred to as "orange biscuits". It reminded me of marmalade, with it's sweet yet zesty taste. Along with Yuusuke, she walked me down to the bus stop on the main road, trying to hand me an umbrella while juggling hers. The wind was strong, too strong for umbrellas though, and it kept folding inside-out. I said goodbye to them both just as the bus arrived, and told them to go back indoors. Being a Sunday, buses were few and far between, so I had opted to get the earliest one possible. At around 7:30am, I was on the road.
Buses don't run regularly in rural Japan - especially on Sundays.
It was weird sitting in the bus, retracing the path that I had walked a couple of days ago. It astounded me that I had covered so much ground on foot, and really put the whole walk into perspective. With every stop the bus made, the more people got picked up, and the windows of the bus fogged up to the point where the views of the angry sea disappeared into a grey haze.
I arrived at Nakumara Station in Shimanto just before 9 o'clock. Kokomo was only two blocks away - there was no way they'd let me check in this early. I couldn't exactly go off exploring today either, the weather wasn't going to allow it. And so I sat, for a good couple of hours, watching the trains and buses come and go, and watched the locals go about their ways.
Just after 11 o'clock I decided to try my luck and check in early at my business hotel. Making my way into the foyer, I removed my stinking wet boots and changed into the hotel's traditional slippers (this is the norm at many business hotels in Japan) and was greeted by the manager, who remembered me from my stay a few nights ago. Unfortunately for me, my room wasn't ready. However, the manager led me to a large lobby - it was a games room, complete with classic old-school Nintendo and Atari consoles, books and comics, and thankfully recliners and poufs. I dumped my wet pack in the hallway, took off my soaked rain gear, and put my feet up. Not for long though - I was getting hungry.
Just after 11 o'clock I decided to try my luck and check in early at my business hotel. Making my way into the foyer, I removed my stinking wet boots and changed into the hotel's traditional slippers (this is the norm at many business hotels in Japan) and was greeted by the manager, who remembered me from my stay a few nights ago. Unfortunately for me, my room wasn't ready. However, the manager led me to a large lobby - it was a games room, complete with classic old-school Nintendo and Atari consoles, books and comics, and thankfully recliners and poufs. I dumped my wet pack in the hallway, took off my soaked rain gear, and put my feet up. Not for long though - I was getting hungry.
Too close for comfort.
The Circle-K konbini was only across the road from Kokomo - living up to it's name, it was very convenient in this crappy weather. It wasn't even midday yet, but I was already hungry. Probably due to the boredom that was kicking in. I wanted to be walking today, I didn't want a day off - walking here had become an addiction; it was now part of my daily routine. After lunch I sat out the front of the konbini with coffee in one hand, and a dirty cigarette in the other. An addiction that I killed back in 2009, and one I shouldn't have started again in Japan. It certainly didn't help that cigarettes were cheap. Lucky Strikes, 430 yen - that's $5 in Australian Dollars. In Australia, you'd pay six times that amount. Such a dirty habit.
The only positive from the rain today were the frogs that were coming out to visit, making themselves at home on the benches and in the carpark. The wildlife in Shikoku was something that I never grew weary of, and I felt like a little kid experiencing the joy and excitement of bugs, critters, and all the cute animals that roamed freely. Except those big colourful spiders. They can get stuffed.
The only positive from the rain today were the frogs that were coming out to visit, making themselves at home on the benches and in the carpark. The wildlife in Shikoku was something that I never grew weary of, and I felt like a little kid experiencing the joy and excitement of bugs, critters, and all the cute animals that roamed freely. Except those big colourful spiders. They can get stuffed.
This cute guy loves the weather. What an idiot.
With the typhoon closing in, I made my way back to Kokomo and finally, FINALLY put my feet up. I made my daily call to my amazing girl back home, and even a couple of mates that I were helping to keep me motivated on days where I needed it (Nick and Hayls - thank you so much). I made the most of these calls to friends, family and loved ones, and very soon I may go a few weeks of not speaking to Gem - she was off to Nepal soon on her own adventure to Everest base camp! I already missed her so much, and I knew that being unable to speak to her would make it a bit harder.
After all my calls back to Australia, I used the rest of the afternoon to plan my next few days in advance, making the most of all the spare time on my hands. I didn't leave the comfy arms of my recliner until well after 4pm, at which point I was able to go to my room, unpack, and have a long hot shower.
After all my calls back to Australia, I used the rest of the afternoon to plan my next few days in advance, making the most of all the spare time on my hands. I didn't leave the comfy arms of my recliner until well after 4pm, at which point I was able to go to my room, unpack, and have a long hot shower.
A typical plan. Note - this was merely a guideline, and NEVER worked. But it was good to have an idea.
I really needed something different to konbini food tonight. I wasn't sure if things were going to be open, Hell, I wasn't sure it was even a good idea walking down the street. But at seven o'clock, after being cooped up for most of the day in the hotel, I made my way out and down the deserted road, hoping to find anything that resembled a restaurant with signs of life.
Delicious pork ramen, nice cold beer...
I was in luck - only a couple of blocks from Kokomo was a small ramen restaurant. Leaving my wet umbrella out the front, I was greeted by the friendly staff and ushered over the a seat at the bench overlooking the cooks. Putting my Japanese pronounciations to the ultimate test I asked the waitress, "osusume wa nan desu ka (お勧めは何ですか)" - literally "which do you recommend" - allowing me to take the guess work out of incomprehensible menus and try something left completely up to chance. Thankfully she had taste, and along with a couple of beers I enjoyed a delicious pork ramen, along with some pork gyozas.
...and some steaming hot gyozas. Delicious!
I had a pretty late night tonight. Heading back to Kokomo, I planned tomorrows walk. Now that I was back in Shimanto, I would have to take a different path. Usually most pilgrims, after Temple 38, don't return to Shimanto, instead cutting across the mountains to the West well before the city. I made a plan - If I stuck to the highway, I could walk from Shimanto City directly to Temple 39. It would be around 20km, and no way of getting lost. Plus it would save backtracking back to Ohki-No-Hama via bus, and walking back some of the way yet again.
Once I had sorted out the walk for tomorrow, I packed my bag up ready to go, prepared my breakfast, and then hit the onsen for a nice hot bath. Tonight I was sharing it with a couple of other gents, but eventually I had it all to myself. It was perfect for soaking my constantly aching feet and legs, and simply for relaxing in. Outside the wind was howling, and the rain hit the windows with such force that it sounded like firecrackers. I went to bed just after midnight, hoping that by the time I woke up, this storm would be long gone. I was getting the henro itch - I needed to be walking tomorrow.
Once I had sorted out the walk for tomorrow, I packed my bag up ready to go, prepared my breakfast, and then hit the onsen for a nice hot bath. Tonight I was sharing it with a couple of other gents, but eventually I had it all to myself. It was perfect for soaking my constantly aching feet and legs, and simply for relaxing in. Outside the wind was howling, and the rain hit the windows with such force that it sounded like firecrackers. I went to bed just after midnight, hoping that by the time I woke up, this storm would be long gone. I was getting the henro itch - I needed to be walking tomorrow.
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